Thursday, November 15, 2012

Green Bean Casserole.


The other day my supervisor and I were talking about our plans for Thanksgiving dinner, and our conversation turned to the classic vegetables-in-disguise side dish, green bean casserole. Love it or hate it, the Campbell's soup masterpiece has been on Thanksgiving menus for years, so much so that the white, chunky, fake mushroom stuff has practically become an institution. Now, I'm not saying I didn't like the canned soup version, topped with onion strings and masquerading as the "healthy" part of Turkey Day...but last year, we came across a recipe that trumped every green bean casserole we've ever had, and the best part: there is nothing canned to be found. 

Chef Stephanie Izard (from Top Chef and Chicago's Girl and the Goat) included her homemade casserole in her cookbook last fall, even though she, like most of us, grew up with the canned version. I can honestly say that it tastes so close to the recipe we are all familiar with, but a MILLION times better. The little bit of spice from the sambal gives it this nice kick, and there's nothing better than lots of fresh mushrooms (we've substituted white button mushrooms for the maitake; they're easier to find). 


If your Thanksgiving table is incomplete without the Campbell's casserole of old, venture beyond the canned beans and soup this year, and make this instead with bright green beans and beautiful mushrooms. And an added benefit of all this fresh, non-canned goodness: you won't feel so bad going back for seconds (or thirds). 


PS: Have you donated today??? 

Green Bean Casserole (Stephanie Izard, adapted from Girl in the Kitchen). 


Yield: 6-8 (generous) portions


For the mushroom soup:


5 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 shallots, minced
1 garlic clove, minced
1 pint button mushrooms, sliced
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
2 cups milk, at room temperature
1 to 2 teaspoons sambal paste 
Salt 
Freshly ground black pepper

In a large saucepan over medium-low heat, melt the butter. Add the shallots and garlic and sweat by cooking until the shallots are translucent, for about 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms and sweat them for 5 more minutes. Add the flour and stir to coat the mushrooms. Whisk in the milk and continue whisking for several minutes to avoid lumps. Slowly bring the mixture to a boil over medium heat, whisking often. Simmer for about 10 minutes, until the soup has the consistency of canned mushroom soup. Season with sambal, salt, and pepper. Thick soup is best for the casserole, but if it's too thick, thin with additional milk.


For the casserole:


2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 pound fresh maitake mushrooms, broken into small pieces
1 pound fresh shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and halved
1 shallot, sliced
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 pounds fresh green beans, trimmed

In a large sauté pan, melt the butter over high heat. Add mushrooms, shallots, and garlic, and sauté for 4 to 5 minutes, until lightly browned. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside. Bring a large stockpot of salted water to a boil. Prepare a bowl of ice water. Add green beans and blanch by boiling them for about 2 minutes -- until they are bright green and barely tender. Put the beans in the ice bath and drain. Place them on a paper towel to dry. In a large bowl, combine the green beans, mushrooms, and soup base. Mix well and transfer to a 9-by-13-inch baking dish. Cover with foil and bake for about 35 minutes, until thoroughly heated.


For the crispy shallots:


Oil for frying

3/4 cup rice flour
1/4 cup cornstarch
4 shallots, very thinly sliced into rounds
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper

In a fryer or heavy-bottomed pan with high sides, heat the oil to 375°F. In a medium bowl, mix together the flour and cornstarch while casserole is baking. Toss the shallots in the mixture, then shake well in a sieve to remove excess flour. Add half of the shallots to the fryer and move them around with tongs while frying, to avoid clumping. When lightly browned (this only takes a bit more than a minute), strain and drain on paper towels, then sprinkle with salt and pepper. Repeat with the remaining shallots. Top the casserole with the crispy shallots and serve.


Photo: Andy Warhol's Campbell's Soup Cans (1962), via BBC

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